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jun 14
2009

No summit today, maybe tomorrow

Posted by: Andrés Cruz

 

We were advised not to go because it was snowing. There was a thunderstorm last night. So they told us we shouldn't attempt to summit today and I agreed. The idea of being at 5.200 metres and -35 degrees with very strong winds is not at all appealing to me.

This caused some friction in our group,  between the ones who wanted to climb at all costs, and those of us who didn't. And it became all the more evident once we found out that two Russians decided to attempt the summit and made it. 

It wasn't easy, though.  When they came back they told us that during the final 300 metres after 'the saddle' (the valley that separates the two peaks at Mt. Elbrus, which is at about 5.300 metres) they encountered steeps of 25 and 45 degrees with 50 cms. of snow in the ground. 

I'm torn about this. On the one side, I do believe we made the right decision, we couldn't risk it. But on the other side, I'm wondering, if the two Russians could make it, why couldn't we? The truth is right now, it's a mind game. Yesterday, when the storm began, I got really nervous. I have a wife I love, a son I worship, there is no way I can take that risk. 

So today we just took a little walk to move our muscles and to release all frictions that rose from not climbing. Right now, we're getting ready to climb tomorrow. 

The weather forecast for tomorrow is of storms. I'm hoping the storm will hit once we're on our way down. So we're going to try, but we won't do anything stupid. The plan is to reach 'the saddle' and from there we'll make the choice of going up or going back down. 

Fortunately, I'm with a guide who won't let us do anything stupid. And I know that I'll be very happy if we summit, but if we don't, I'll still know I gave it my best.

 Sacha, our guide, with a big macho attitude, only says: "the weather is like women. One day they're fine, the next they aren't, and you never know why".

Andrés Cruz is climbing Mt. Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe, in support of 157 single mothers and teenagers who live in Cartagena. Follow his blog, and remember to make a donation.

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